Kawasaki motorcycles are known for their sleek style, broad accessibility, and versatile riding styles.
And while Kawasaki motorcycles are typically considered reliable by their owners and faithful followers, no bike brand is perfect.
This article covers the most common reasons why a Kawasaki motorcycle won’t start, how to diagnose and repair them, and how to prevent them from happening in the future.
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Here’s Why your Kawasaki Won’t Start:
Your Kawasaki bike may not start due to battery, fuel system, spark plug, or carburetor issues. If the battery is weak, the fuel filter is clogged, the fuel pump is faulty, the fuel valve is closed, or the spark plug is dirty, your motorcycle may fail to start.
Kawasaki Won’t Start
Some of the factors that can affect your Kawasaki’s ability to start are:
- Battery condition and connections
- Ignition switch and kill switch
- Fuel system and quality
- Spark plugs and wires
- Starter motor and relay
- Fuses and circuit breakers
By following some simple steps and using some basic tools, you can diagnose and solve most of the starting issues on your Kawasaki motorcycle.
Read on to find out more, but first, let’s get the basics out of the way.
Kill Switch Set to OFF
One of the simplest but most overlooked reasons why your Kawasaki motorcycle won’t start is the kill switch.
The kill switch is a safety feature that allows you to cut off the engine in an emergency.
It’s usually located on the right handlebar near the throttle.
If the kill switch is OFF, your Kawasaki won’t start even if everything else works fine.
To fix this, flip the kill switch to ON or RUN and try starting your bike again.
Petcock
If you have an older Kawasaki with a carbureted engine, your Kawk might equip a petcock valve that controls the fuel flow from the tank to the carburetor.
The petcock valve usually has three positions: ON, OFF, and RESERVE.
If the petcock valve is set to OFF, your Kawasaki won’t start because no fuel is reaching the engine.
If the petcock valve is set to RESERVE, your Kawasaki will only start if enough fuel is left in the reserve tank.
To fix this, ensure the petcock valve is set to ON, and you have enough fuel in the tank.
Side Stand Extended
Some Kawasaki models have a safety feature that prevents the bike from starting if the side stand is extended.
This is to prevent the bike from moving accidentally if you try to start it while parked on the side stand.
If your Kawasaki has this feature and you try to start it with the side stand extended, you will hear a clicking sound, but nothing else will happen.
To fix this, retract the side stand and try starting your bike again.
Kawasaki Won’t Start Just Clicks
If you hear a clicking sound when you try to start your Kawasaki, but it won’t turn over, it could mean a weak or dead battery, a problematic starter relay, or a faulty starter motor.
Inspect your Kawk’s battery voltage with a multimeter.
It should be around 12.6 volts. If not, charge or replace the battery.
Check the starter relay by bypassing it with a jumper wire.
If the bike starts, the relay is bad and needs a new one.
Examine the starter motor by connecting it to the battery with a jumper wire.
If it spins, it’s still functional; if there’s no motion, the starter motor is faulty and needs to be replaced.
To prevent this problem from happening, keep your battery in good shape, and don’t leave your bike unused for too long.
Also, regularly inspect and clean your starter relay and motor and replace them if needed.
Kawasaki Won’t Start in Gear
If your Kawasaki doesn’t start when it’s in gear, it could mean your clutch or neutral safety switch is faulty.
These switches are designed to prevent the bike from starting in gear unless the clutch lever is pulled in, helping riders to avoid accidental movement of the bike when starting.
If the clutch or neutral safety switches are damaged or misaligned, they may not allow the bike to start even if the clutch lever is pulled in.
To rectify this issue, check the clutch switch – a small button pressed when the lever is pulled in.
Ensure it isn’t lost or broken and the wires are connected properly.
Inspect the neutral safety switch by locating it on the transmission.
It is a small sensor that detects whether or not the bike is in neutral.
Ensure it isn’t dirty or corroded and the wires are correctly connected.
To avoid this problem, keep your clutch and neutral safety switch clean and lubricated and adjust them if needed.
Kawasaki Won’t Crank
If your Kawasaki doesn’t crank when you press the starter button, it could mean your starter solenoid is faulty, or your wiring harness is damaged.
The starter solenoid is a device that transfers electric current from the battery to the starter motor when you press the starter button.
The wiring harness is the system of wires connecting the electrical components of your bike.
If the starter solenoid is defective or the wiring harness is broken or shorted, your bike won’t crank.
Examine the starter solenoid by locating it near the battery. It’s a cylindrical device with two large terminals and a small wire.
Check the wiring harness by inspecting it for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections.
If you find any problems, you need to repair or replace the damaged wiring.
You can use a multimeter to test the continuity and voltage of the wires.
To prevent this problem, keep your starter solenoid and wiring harness clean and protected from moisture and heat, and replace them if they show signs of wear or damage.
Kawasaki Won’t Start In Cold
If your Kawasaki doesn’t start in cold weather, it could mean that your battery is weak or your fuel system isn’t working correctly. Low temperatures can affect motorcycle batteries which may not have enough power to crank the engine.
The fuel system may have problems with fuel delivery or fuel quality in cold weather.
The fuel may be too thick or too old and may not flow well or ignite easily.
Check the battery by measuring its voltage with a multimeter.
It should be around 12.6 volts when fully charged.
If it is lower than 12 volts, you need to charge or replace the battery.
You can also use a battery tender to keep the battery warm and charged when not in use.
Check the fuel system by draining and replacing the old fuel with fresh fuel.
Check the fuel filter, pump, and fuel injectors for any clogs or leaks, and clean or replace them if needed.
Use a fuel stabilizer to prevent the fuel from deteriorating over time.
To prevent this problem, keep your battery and fuel system in good condition and store your bike in a dry and warm place when not in use, or use a motorcycle cover to protect your bike from the elements.
Kawasaki Won’t Start After Laying Down
If your Kawasaki doesn’t start after laying down on its side, it could mean your engine is flooded with fuel or oil.
This can happen when the bike tips over and the fuel or oil leaks into the cylinders or the air filter.
This can prevent the engine from getting enough air or spark to start.
Turn off the fuel valve and remove the spark plugs.
Crank the engine a few times to clear out the excess fuel or oil from the cylinders.
Clean and dry the spark plugs and reinstall them.
Remove the air filter and check if it is wet or dirty.
If it is, replace it with a new one or clean and dry it if it is reusable.
Furthermore, some modern Kawasaki motorcycle models equip a tip-over sensor to shut off the fuel and ignition when the bike falls over.
If your year model Kawk moto has a tip-over sensor, it may need to be reset once the bike is in the correct orientation, or the sensor will prevent the bike from starting.
Kawasaki Won’t Start After Winter
Your Kawasaki motorcycle may not start after storing it for winter or long periods due to a dead battery or a clogged fuel system. The battery can lose its charge, and the fuel can spoil, corrupt, or get contaminated over time.
Check the battery voltage with a multimeter. It should be around 12.6 volts.
If not, charge or replace the battery. Use a battery tender to keep it charged during winter.
Inspect the fuel system by draining and replacing the old fuel with fresh fuel.
Use a fuel stabilizer to prevent the fuel from deteriorating.
Check the fuel filter, pump, and injectors for clogs or leaks and clean or replace them if needed.
To prevent this problem, prepare your bike for winter storage by filling the tank with fresh fuel and adding a fuel stabilizer. Unhook the battery from the bike and connect it to a battery tender.
Change the oil and filter, lubricate the chain and cables, clean and wax the bike, and cover it with a motorcycle cover.
Kawasaki Won’t Start Oil Light On
If your Kawasaki won’t start and the oil light is on, it could mean that your engine is low on oil, has insufficient oil pressure, or your oil pressure sensor is faulty.
The oil light is a warning indicator that tells you if the oil pressure is too low to lubricate the engine properly. If the oil pressure is too low, your engine can get damaged or, in extreme situations, seized.
Therefore, if the pressure sensor is faulty, it can give a false pressure reading to your ECU, preventing the bike from starting.
Check the oil level and quality by using the dipstick or sight glass. Change the oil and replace the filter if it is low or dirty.
Check that the oil pressure sensor isn’t loose or damaged and that the connecting wires aren’t broken or shorted.
You can also test the sensor with a multimeter or check your pressure with a manual oil pressure gauge to see if the pressure is, in fact, faulty.
Avoid this problem by keeping your oil level and quality in good condition and changing it regularly according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Inspect and clean your oil pressure sensor and replace it if it shows signs of wear or damage.
Kawasaki Won’t Start When Hot
If your Kawasaki won’t start when it’s hot, it could mean your engine is overheating, or your valves are out of adjustment. The engine can overheat if the cooling system is malfunctioning or the ambient temperature is too high.
The valves can be out of adjustment if they’re too tight and don’t close entirely when the engine is warmed up, reducing the compression and preventing the engine from starting.
Check the cooling system by inspecting the radiator, hoses, fan, thermostat, and coolant level.
Ensure they’re not clogged, damaged, or leaking and that the fan is working.
Replace or flush the coolant if it’s dirty or low.
Check the valve clearance using a feeler gauge and following the manufacturer’s specifications.
Adjust the valves if they’re too tight or too loose.
To prevent this problem, keep your cooling system in good condition and change the coolant regularly according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
You can also periodically check and adjust your valves and avoid running the engine in extreme heat.
Kawasaki Won’t Start After Changing Handlebars
If your Kawasaki doesn’t start after changing handlebars, it could mean that you pinched, damaged, or loosened your wires or connectors during the installation or that you have faulty switches on the clutch lever, the kill switch, or the starter button.
Check the wiring by inspecting the wires and connectors for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections.
If you find any frays, shorts, or burned wires, you must repair or replace the wiring. You can also use a multimeter to test the continuity and voltage of the wires.
Check the switches by locating them on the handlebars and ensuring they’re not loose, broken, or dirty.
You can also test the switches with a multimeter or a jumper wire to see if they work correctly.
If they’re not, you need to clean, adjust, or replace the switches.
To avoid this problem, be careful when changing handlebars and avoid pinching or stretching the wires or connectors.
You can also use cable ties or electrical tape to secure the wires and connectors and prevent them from moving or rubbing against each other while riding.
Related: How Long Do Kawasaki Motorcycles Last? (Solved & Explained)
Kawasaki Won’t Start With Key Fob
If your Kawasaki won’t start with the key fob, it could mean that your key fob battery is dead; Kawasaki’s signature KIPASS system does not recognize your key fob, or your ECU, ignition switch, fob, or bike battery are faulty.
The key fob is a device that communicates with the KIPASS system to unlock the ignition and allow the bike to start. If the key fob battery is dead, the key fob isn’t recognized, or the KIPASS system is malfunctioning, the bike won’t start, and the KIPASS indicator will flash.
Check the key fob battery using the emergency key that comes with the key fob.
The emergency key can be used to start the bike without the key fob by inserting it into a slot under the seat.
If the bike starts with the emergency key, it means the key fob battery is dead and needs to be replaced.
Check the key fob recognition by using another registered key fob or by re-registering your key fob with the KIPASS system.
You can re-register your key fob by following the instructions in your owner’s manual.
If the bike starts with another key fob or after re-registering it, it means the KIPASS system did not recognize your key fob and needs to be re-registered or replaced.
To prevent this problem, keep your key fob battery in good condition and change it regularly according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Keep your key fob clean and protected from moisture and heat, and avoid dropping it or exposing it to strong magnetic fields.
We also suggest you keep your ignition switch and ECU clean and protected from moisture and heat and inspect them periodically for any problems.
Kawasaki Won’t Start With New Battery
Suppose your Kawasaki doesn’t start with a new battery. In that case, it could mean that your battery isn’t fully charged, your battery connections are loose or corroded, or your starter solenoid or starter motor is faulty.
The starter solenoid and starter motor must be working properly to transfer the electric current from the battery to the engine. The battery needs to have enough charge and power to crank the engine.
Furthermore, the battery connections must be clean and tight to ensure good electrical contact.
To prevent this problem, keep your battery fully charged and maintained with a battery tender when not in use. Keep your battery connections clean and tight, and inspect them periodically for any problems.
We recommend keeping your starter solenoid and starter motor clean and protected from moisture and heat and replacing them if they show signs of wear or damage.
Kawasaki Won’t Start With Clutch Pulled
If your Kawasaki won’t start with the clutch pulled, it could mean that your clutch safety switch is faulty or misaligned, your clutch cable is loose or broken, or your transmission isn’t in neutral.
Check the clutch safety switch by testing it with a multimeter or a jumper wire. If it is loose, broken, or dirty, clean, adjust, or replace it.
Inspect the clutch cable by adjusting the cable tension and lubricating the cable, replacing it if it’s damaged or worn.
Examine the transmission by shifting into neutral and looking for neutral light. If it does not come on, rock the bike while shifting to help it engage.
To avoid this problem, keep your clutch safety switch and cable clean and maintain and inspect them regularly. Maintain your transmission’s cleanliness, condition, and lubrication, periodically changing the oil and filter.
Kawasaki Won’t Start: Lights Flashing
A Kawasaki motorcycle won’t start due to a problem or a fault code in the ECU or FI (Fuel Injection) system, which can cause the lights to flash.
The ECU manages the engine functions. The FI system delivers fuel to the engine. The lights flash to show an error code stored in the ECU memory.
Check the error code using a tool or a wire to connect the diagnostic connector. Look up the code meaning and solutions online or in the manual. The FI light will flash the code number.
Check the components related to the code by inspecting and testing them. If they’re damaged or worn, repair or replace them.
Clear the error code using a tool or a wire to erase the code from the ECU memory. You can also disconnect the battery to reset the ECU.
To prevent this problem, avoid modifying or tampering with the ECU or FI systems.
